INGREDIENT

Organic Shea Butter

Butyrospermum parkii

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Moisturising and emollient
24
Products with this ingredient

Shea butter moisturises and conditions the hair and skin while giving a very smooth and soft feeling thanks to its emollient properties. It has a whipped texture that easily melts at body temperature.

Description

Description

Shea butter is the ivory-coloured fat extracted from the nut of the vitellaria tree (Vitellaria Paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii), which is native to Africa, and more specifically the Sahel region. To obtain the butter, the nuts are dried and crushed before being roasted and pressed into a silk liquor. This is then whipped and kneaded in large pans until fat forms on top.

Shea has a lot in common with cocoa butter and has often been used as an alternative in the chocolate industry. Both contain oleic acid, a mono-unsaturated fatty acid that is highly compatible with our body's natural sebum and allows the butter to be more easily absorbed into the skin. 

They also contain stearic acid, a skin-softening fatty acid that acts as an emulsifier. This means that the butter helps bind oil and water together, preventing products from separating. Combined with the solid nature of the butter, this emulsifying property creates tight emulsions that leave no room for microbes to move and grow, helping products to remain fresher for longer.

The knowledge and expertise surrounding shea butter’s extraction process are passed down from women to women through the generations. Nowadays, it provides income to many women's groups and cooperatives across the Sahel. Lush buy from two suppliers working directly with women producers in Ghana; one is certified organic while the other is Fair Trade. Each butter is refined to neutralise colour and aroma, a common practice in cosmetics as it could interfere with other ingredients.

Organic Shea Butter can be found in these products
24
Products with this ingredient
Organic Shea Butter can be found in these products
therapy massage bar
Massage Bar
Rejuvenating, calming moisture
£7.00
50g
They're Gone!
Massage Bar
Sensually soft
£9.00
60g
They're Gone!
 Double Vitality
Bath Oil
Brighten and soften skin
£2.95
Each
Moringa
Beauty Balm
Prime and soften your skin
£26.00
55g

FEATURED

A beginners guide to self-preserving

More than 65% of Lush products are self-preserving, which means that they don't require any synthetic preservatives to keep them fresh.

 

But it’s not as simple as just taking out the synthetics. The dynamics of each formula must be carefully balanced in order to produce effective, practical and long-lasting products, which are just as good as their preserved counterparts. Lush co-founder and product inventor Helen Ambrosen explains, "We see cosmetics as an art form. When you are creating products you are painting a picture and you want to put things together in a way that has the best effect. No matter how organic, or ‘green,’ a product is,  if it doesn’t work for the customer they’re not going to want it, so therefore we have to create a formula that retains its benefits."

Let's say you're throwing a dinner party, for example. You’re inviting all of your favourite people and cooking your signature dish - maybe it’s a chilli con carne, a spaghetti carbonara or a jalfrezi. So far so good - until one of your guests reveals a new dietary requirement… Maybe they’re vegan, a celiac or perhaps they have an allergy. Whatever their needs, your recipe has to change. If you want your meal to be just as delicious, you can’t just swap out the troublesome ingredient. No, the whole recipe needs to be looked at and assessed to make sure the texture, taste and smell is equally as tasty as before. You wouldn’t want to let any of the guests down, especially the ones who had tried your staple recipe before and had come to expect a certain spiciness, creaminess or smell. To make sure your dinner party is a success you have to look at your recipe like a formula.

The problem with "free water"

Free water,” also known as “water activity,” refers to water that microbes can use to reproduce. Like all living things, microorganisms need water and nutrients to grow, and so water-based products like shower gels provide the perfect environment for bacterial reproduction. To keep perishables safe and fresh, free water must either be reduced or microbial growth must be controlled with a preservative.

Synthetic preservatives like parabens can be used to stop microbes from developing in water-based products. Absorbent natural materials like clay and water-soluble compounds like salts and sugars can also be used to reduce the amount of water that microbes are able to access. Solid, naked products have a minimal water content which means they don’t need added preservatives.

Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics Presents: Self Preserving

Self-preserving in practice

Experimenting with ways to keep the amount of free water to a minimum means that liquid products like shower gels can become entirely self-preserving. By balancing the levels of water, butters and oils, safe synthetic cleansing agents and beautiful, natural materials, it's possible to create cosmetics made almost entirely of materials which are beneficial to the skin or hair.

It's a careful, delicate process, however, one that takes time and effort to apply to more and more products. The dynamics of the formula must be carefully balanced in order to produce a beautiful product that is effective, practical and long-lasting, without having to utilise a synthetic preservative system.

It’s a question of balance - and a change of attitude - learning to work with our microbe friends rather than against them. “Highly preserved products are capable of wiping out the microflora that protects our skin,” explains Helen, “and we want our products to be better than that. We want them to deliver great effects for the customer in a safe and natural way.  This has led to us having a relationship with our microbial friends.”

Cosmetic scientist and product developer Daniel Campbell describes the difficulty in balancing water and oil in a self-preserving version of Dream Cream, a product type known as an emulsion which binds oil and water together.

He explains, "We needed to ensure that the emulsion was loose enough to allow the oil to be absorbed by the sebum that sits on your skin, but bacteria really like to live between a loose interface made of oil and water. What we needed to do was to create a balance where the emulsion was loose enough be absorbed into your skin but tight enough so that microorganisms couldn’t get in there. We found that by reducing the water slightly and moving up the quantities of oil, glycerine and cocoa butter, that we were able to strike that balance - and that it was a very specific balance.”

 

Self-preserving or preservative-free?

Preservative-free is a tricky piece of phrasing. It implies that a product is completely free of preservatives - something experts Jon J. Kara and Donald S. Orth take issue with in their publication, Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs: Principles and Practice (1996). They explain, “Usually, multiple-use aqueous consumer products in their current containers cannot be made preservative-free merely by removing preservatives from the formula. The term self-preserving is more appropriate than preservative-free for most aqueous products containing a chemical system that kills microorganisms and/or prevents their growth.

In other words, nearly all of the time water-based ‘preservative-free’ products contain a preservative -  just not one recognised by the EU. For example, honey, salt, kaolin, clay, talc, calamine and cocoa and shea butters all have preservative qualities when used in the right quantities. In addition, preservation techniques like creating solid products, reducing the amount of free water in a formula and using sealed packaging and shorter shelf lives can also be used to create self-preserving formulas.